Winter wonderland

Nature is in a trance. Silvery fir trees, their tips bent with the weight of snow, resemble ghostly ice sculptures. The forest floor of the Toyoibe National Park and all its creatures are snuggled under a fluffy white doona, its well traversed aspen groves and conifer-covered hiking and biking trails carved by a network of glistening white, talcum soft groomed runs, steep chutes and hidden glades.

This magical white world stands out against a flawless blue sky which mirrors the world’s second largest alpine lake. Too deep to freeze over in winter, Lake Tahoe glimmers like a jewel beyond our mountain base.

It’s heavenly, literally.

Nevada is perhaps better known for the rich silver deposits that once glistened underground, as well as its vast plains dotted with cattle ranches, cowboys and the nation’s largest population of wild horses.

Carson and Virginia cities might ring bells with older viewers of the TV’s western Bonanza. And few can ignore tax-free state’s lengthy obsession with gambling.

Although it’s the US’s driest state, Nevada actually gets its (Spanish) name from the abundance of winter snow which covers the peaks of the Sierra Nevada range that straddles the state line neighbouring California, on its western edge. And since 1960, when Squaw Valley hosted the Winter Olympics, these mountains which gaze over Lake Tahoe’s cerulean waters, have been the skiing centre of the western US.

Encompassing 3,600 skiable acres, Squaw Valley is just one of eleven resorts to choose from near the Lake’s Northern Shores. Others include Sugar Bowl and Alpine Meadows’ 2,400 skiable acres (including seven powder bowls), or the 1,840 vertical feet of scenic trails at Diamond Peak.

Cresting at 10,067 ft (3,068m) and offering the most skiable terrain in the Tahoe region, our destination lies beyond the lake’s southern rim (along with its sister resort of Kirkwood and Sierra-at-Tahoe).

Owned by Vail Resorts, Heavenly is a name that promises much but had struggled to live up to in recent years due to severe drought. Unseasonal dry and balmy winter conditions meant many local resorts had to turn to high-tech machines to create their own snow. It spelled near disaster for a region which banks on an average of over 10 metres of snow a year.

In late 2015 however, fortune smiled once again – just in time for the mountain resort’s 60th birthday celebrations. With El Nino playing Santa, Heavenly’s lifts were running weeks ahead of its usual mid-November opening (and long after traditional closing date) thanks to record snowfalls. Those who’d optimistically snapped up heavily discounted season passes were celebrating an unexpected windfall and our last-minute gamble for a white Christmas paid off, big time.

California Trail

One of the best ways to capture the postcard views, especially on a blue-sky day, (of which there are 300 on average), is to take the gondola 2.4 vertical miles up the mountain from Heavenly Village – the resort’s main accommodation, shopping, dining and entertainment precinct.

The next best spot to snap a selfie is on the California Trail, which crosses the state line from Nevada into the Golden State. Accessed from the top of the gondola, where you’ll find the ski school and adventure park, this cruisey blue run meanders through open country and aptly named Sky and Canyon Express lifts and into Powderbowl Woods, which is criss-crossed with some of the most enjoyable easy greens and more challenging blue and black tracks.

Open to intermediate skiers, my next favourite for lingering water views was the Ridge Run, leaving the top of the Sky Express chair and tracing the boundary line down to Maggie’s easy green (a chance to rest the legs and stop for a cider at Steins’ Umbrella Bar) before cruising past the smallest of the mountain’s two terrain parks and weaving through trees down Round-a-bout to the California Lodge where I could catch the shuttle bus back to the main village.

While our condominium accommodation at the Ridge Crest lay further east on the Nevada side of the state line, encompassing vast views of Carson Valley, a free shuttle regularly ferries skiers and boarders to and from Heavenly village just eight kilometres away. When the clouds hung low, we were able to access the rest of mountain resort’s 97 trails via the nearby Stagecoach quad chair.

When the skis come off

Mums and dads: Californians, who are used to last drinks being called at 2am, especially like to head over the state line into Nevada to party into the wee small hours. As well as hosting world-class entertainers, Lake Tahoe’s hotel casinos, which includes new kid on the south shore, the Hard Rock Hotel & Casino, lure high rollers and their apprentices 24/7.

Kid-friendly: Families can catch the latest blockbuster films on one of eight screens at Heavenly’s village cinema. The village’s mini-golf course becomes an outdoor ice rink in winter. Lit up at night, the rink is surrounded by great shopping and dining venues. Personal favourites include the urban chic Base Camp Pizza Co. for drinks and nibbles and Pacific Crest Gallery, Sock City and On Tahoe Time for gorgeous Christmas gifts and souvenirs.

The travel lowdown

Getting there: Fly to LA and connect to Reno.

Ski season: Mid-November (Nov 17) to late April. Snow chains must be carried.

Lift passes: A 3-day Epic Lift pass also gives you access to other Vail Resort properties around Lake Tahoe including Kirkwood and Northstar. Your ticket also includes a seat on the Gondola and you can easily add days. Available online. http://www.skiheavenly.com

Family favourites: During the season Heavenly’s popular Tubing Hill at the top of the Gondola is open from 11-4pm. Check out the Ridge Rider Mountain Coaster for additional thrills.

Where next? Your little adventurers will definitely love you forever if you extend your holiday with a stopover in LA visiting its famous Hollywood haunts, beaches and theme parks including Universal Studios and Disneyland.